Cartier Calibre de Cartier Diver W7100055

So Cartier made a dive watch. Actually, it made two: the Calibre de Cartier Diver has already had an update, since its first launch in 2014. The original was well received: the update is even better.
To understand the Calibre de Cartier Diver, you have to look at the rest of the brand's lineup. From Tank to Drive, there's something missing: a full-on sports watch. So, how does a brand that's as steeped in horological classicism as Cartier create a luxury sports timepiece without alienating its fanbase? Easy. It does what Rolex does, and Breitling, and Blancpain. One look at the Calibre de Cartier Diver, and you can see exactly where it wants to be in the watch safe: next to the Submariners, the Superoceans, the Fifty Fathoms.
So, does it succeed? Well, yes and no. On the one hand, the Calibre de Cartier Diver is the most luxe of the luxury sports watches. For a start, it's available in an 18k rose gold case. It's also available in a stainless steel case with a pink gold bezel and crown ( model W7100055 ). That puts it right up there with the Sub and the Fifty Fathoms, both respected tool watches that you can now buy in precious metals. The Calibre de Cartier Diver also has an independent ISO 6425 Dive Watch classification, which means it has the tech to back up its design cues.
On the other hand: well, it's the most luxe of the luxury sports watches. And that, as well as being a blessing, is a little bit of a curse. I just can't see anyone actually taking a Cartier diver down into the briny deep. A Fifty Fathoms, absolutely. A Sub, possibly, if they were on holiday somewhere nice. But a Cartier? Who dives with a Cartier?
Of course, this is only a problem if you're the sort of person who tends to dive wearing a luxury watch anyway—which few of us really are. Yes, as noted, some Sub owners probably do take their Rolexes below the surface, and I'm sure the world has its complement of oceangoing Blancpain wearers. But in reality, real dive tools tend to be made by brands only divers have heard of, like Doxa and Oris.
The target wearer of a Calibre de Cartier Diver is almost certainly a successful desk diver—that is, a guy who likes to rock a luxe timepiece that shows off his hobby, but who probably hasn't got much time for actual diving these days. It's an office piece, and a weekend club piece. And in a way, that gives it the edge over all the other luxury watches mentioned in this article—on dry land, at any rate. Because this luxury watch is more overtly luxurious than any of them.
Cartier's signature numerals are an immediate visual indicator of quality. On the diver, they are viewed through sapphire glass and surrounded by a unidirectional diver's bezel. Small seconds run at 6 o'clock, and there's a date window at 3. Indexes are lumed, and the rubber strap is secured by a steel buckle.
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